spiced squash, fennel, and pear soup

It’s that time of year once again, time to take the ice cream maker out of the freezer and start stocking up on soup for those cold winter days when I’m too lazy to cook. I love soup and it is one of my favorite winter meals. It’s just so warming and comforting and (usually) nutritious. It is also one of the few recipes which I never half or quarter, regardless of how many servings it makes. Instead I make the full batch and freeze the leftovers. And this week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Spiced Squash, Fennel, and Pear Soup is officially the first soup to move into my freezer this season. I’m a little happier just knowing it’s there!

This week’s recipe was also a reminder of why I love my local produce stand so much. All over Germany we have these ubiquitous little outdoor produce stands which are neither grocery store nor farm stand. In the main square near my apartment are three such stands, none of which ever seems to be hurting for customers. The owners of these stands are not farmers, but instead source their produce from various distributors, depending on the season. What I love about these stands (or at least what I love about my stand) is the level of service. The guys who work there really know their stuff and are always willing to provide a helpful tip or give you a taste of something. And what I really love is that, unlike at the grocery store, I can buy as little or as much of each item as I need. If I need one stalk of celery and not an entire bundle, I can buy one stalk of celery. If Dorie’s recipe calls for 1.5 kilos of pumpkin, but the smallest pumpkin available is 4 kilos, all I have to do is ask and they will cut me off a piece exactly the size I need and wrap up the rest to sell to the next customer. No need to worry about figuring out what to do with all that leftover pumpkin!

But on with the recipe. I have made many a pumpkin and/or squash soups in my lifetime, but this was the first time that pear and fennel were thrown into the mix. And while I can’t say that the taste of either was particularly pronounced in the end product, both added a subtle little complexity of flavor which I really enjoyed.

My soup was also a timely reminder that I need to buy new spices before Thanksgiving rolls around because my soup was decidedly not “spiced” as the name indicates that it should be. However, considering that it has been a very long time since I refreshed my spices, I blame myself and not the recipe. And I have to ask, am I the only one? I mean, I think we have all read the guidelines for how long ground spices keep their spiciness, but does anyone else really use up their spices that quickly? And if ground spices really have such a short shelf life, why the heck are they sold in such large quantities? I just find it so depressing to have to throw away half the container of cinnamon, even though the only hint one would have that it is cinnamon is the label on the jar because it long ago stopped smelling like anything at all. But enough whining I guess, time to suck it up and go shopping before I end up with a flavorless pumpkin pie.

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french apple cake

My German mother in law is one of those cooks who never uses a recipe and wouldn’t know how to give you a recipe if you asked. I know this because I have tried to ask, and her response is always to pull me into the kitchen to watch as she adds a little of this, a little of that, now a little more of this, stir it all together until it reaches the “right consistency”, cook until it “looks done” and serve.

What I find even more entertaining is her response any time my husband asks his mother for a recipe. She will hear the question come out of HIS mouth and will then pull ME into the kitchen for a demonstration. We have tried pointing out that her son is a perfectly competent cook, but this seems to have little effect. I have yet to decide if she does this because she thinks that cooking is women’s work or if she just doesn’t trust her son in the kitchen. In either case we have learned that I need to be present if we want to get a recipe out of her.

So I had to laugh when I read Dorie’s introduction to Marie Helene’s Apple Cake, in which she bemoans the fact that getting recipes out of the french home cook is equally difficult. Though, let me assure you right now that Dorie seems to have done a pretty darn good job, because this is one of my favorite recipes in the book.

In fact, this cake was one of the first recipes I made from Around my French Table. At the time I was not yet part of French Fridays with Dorie, heck, I didn’t even own the book. But after seeing the recipe posted last autumn on David Lebovitz’s blog, and more importantly, after seeing his mouth-watering photo, I set out to make the cake right away.

And now that it is once again apple season, I couldn’t help but pull this recipe out again. This time around I was out of rum so I threw in kahlua instead. And you know what, still delicious. David suggests a dollop of creme fraiche to go with it and I may indeed have to give that a try. But in the meantime, it’s also darn good all by itself.

I’m going to have to encourage you to check out David’s photos and not to rely on mine. I made this at night and didn’t have any natural light for a good picture. I took a couple safety shots and figured that I would get some better pictures the next day. But then my husband’s jogging buddies stopped by after their morning run and I woke up to this…

Which I guess means that they liked it!

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honey-glazed duck breasts

Late last year I met up with some old friends in Paris and attended a cooking class led by the delightful Paule Caillat at Promenades Gourmandes. It was an unforgettable experience and I think fondly of Paule every time we make one of her delicious dishes. In fact, we have now served her recipe for Magret de Canard with Sauce Bordelaise to so many friends that we have lost count. The star of her recipe is absolutely the bordelaise sauce (which is the best I have ever had) but we also found the technique for pan searing duck breasts to be a revelation, who knew it was so easy!

This week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Twenty Minute Honey Glazed Duck Breasts, features the same technique for cooking the duck, but is paired with a quick and easy honey-balsamic pan sauce. As someone who has now put this technique to good use on multiple occasions, may I just say that it is brilliant and really easy. If done correctly, the skin comes out crispy and delicious and the meat juicy and tender. Then, it’s just a matter of deciding how you want to dress it up, and Dorie’s simple pan sauce (see her full recipe here in d’Artagnan) is perfect for when you need to get dinner on the table quickly and with minimal fuss.

The all important technique calls for the fatty duck skin to be scored into a crosshatch pattern without cutting the meat; this is important because if you cut into the meat the juices will escape during cooking and your duck may end up dry. The breasts are then seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked, skin side down first, in a very hot skillet. Note that, as with bacon, there is no need to add any butter or oil to the pan because the duck has enough fat to saute itself. A couple minutes on each side, then a short stint in the oven, and voila! Perfectly cooked every time.

Just one word of warning here, this is one of those recipes which will make you appreciate your splatter screen (or make you wish you had one) because all that duck fat can get a bit messy. It may also test the batteries in your smoke detector. But please do not let that deter you, because if you like duck, this is a great way to cook it.

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expat travels in Istria

Two years ago my husband and I drove down to Croatia for our honeymoon and fell in love with the country. We visited Dubrovnik and many of the other towns along the Dalmatian Coast, we hiked around the turquoise lakes of Plitvice, we ventured over the borders to Bosnia and Montenegro, and we ate & drank our way through Istria. And it was to Istria, that small triangular peninsula in the far northwest corner of the country, where we returned last week for a little R&R and a lot of F&W (food and wine).

If I had to sum up Istria for someone who has never been there before, I guess I would say it is like a sleepy, slightly more laid back version of Tuscany or maybe even Provence. The coast is littered with fishing ports, many cute ones, some a bit more industrial. The interior’s rolling vineyards are dotted with little hilltop towns, which are overrun with tourists in the summer and seemingly abandoned in the winter. But, just because you may have never heard of it does not mean that Istria is undiscovered, the european tourists know all about it.

Our home base for the week was Rovinj (pronounced roveen) on the peninsula’s west coast, where we rented a holiday apartment in the middle of old town. The “street” where we stayed was actually stairs leading up to the town’s eye-catching church. From there we made several trips to visit surrounding towns, and made a trip into the interior for a truffle hunting expedition.

But the real reason we were there was for the food and wine. To date, one of the best meals I have ever had in my life was on our honeymoon at a restaurant named Le Mandrac in Volosko, Croatia. This trip we followed that meal up with many memorable dining experiences (though I think Le Mandrac still reigns supreme). For anyone looking for restaurant & wine recommendations, below is a summary of the places we liked (I’m not listing the ones we didn’t like). In addition to online research, we also found the gourmet guide published by the Istrian Tourism Board to be surprisingly good.

Istrian Cuisine – Similar in some respects to what we would consider “mediterranean food”, some typical istrian dishes include: whole roasted fish or seafood drizzled with a garlicky herb sauce, pasta with truffle sauce, prosciutto, manestra soup (similar to a minestrone), and a delicious side dish of boiled potatoes, chard, garlic, and olive oil.

Do be warned, however, that many restaurants (at least on the coast) close in the off-season as early as mid-September. There were still quite a few good options when we visited in late October, but it’s a good thing to keep in mind if you visit out of high season.

Note that all of the below restaurants are in Rovinj.

  • Veli Joze – One of our favorites of the trip. It’s not winning any awards for decor and you would be forgiven for thinking that a flea market had exploded around you as you are eating your meal. But the service was great and the food was even better. We loved their manestra soup and the grilled fish was divine. My husband loved their tiramisu. Fab wine, what more can you ask!
  • Al gastaldo – This one would win an award for decor. The restaurant is so comfy and cozy, with a seat next to the fireplace you feel like you are sitting in your grandma’s living room. But again, food is always more important and this one really impressed us as well. I had an absolutely delicious pasta with a creamy truffle sauce which is making my mouth water just remembering it. We were also provided with a fantastic wine recommendation and my husband had the best grilled calamari of the trip. They do not accept credit cards.
  • Dream – This was our first meal of the trip and we were not disappointed. Delicious fish, great wine options, an overall good meal.
  • Taverna da Baston – I don’t even know how we picked this restaurant because it was definitely not listed in any gourmet articles which I researched before we left. And, while this tiny place next to the fish market is decidedly not gourmet, it is good. Only open for lunch, tiny menu, limited wine options, but fresh fish, which is grilled with only a little salt and olive oil right before your eyes in the corner fireplace, is delicious. All that and cheap!
  • Da Sergio – Great pizza! Nuf said.
  • Grota – Every day of our vacation we started our day with a cappuccino & roll while sitting outside at this tiny tiny cafe located next to the open air produce market. Their food offerings are extremely limited, only a few wine barrels to sit at outside and no seating inside, but the coffee is delicious and those little rolls filled with either mortadella or prosciutto were darn tasty. We had some pretty awful coffee in a few of the town’s other cafes, so we always ended up back here.

Istrian Wine – Wine has apparently been grown in Croatia since pre-Roman times, and has recently started to gain the wine world’s attention as the country shifts back to small, independent producers since their independence from Yugoslavia. The predominant grape is Malvazia, a fresh white which pairs well with seafood dishes. The predominant red grape is Teran, though the reds we enjoyed seemed to be primarily blends of several grapes.

The only complaint I have about Istrian wine is that it is very difficult to find information online about which wineries have open tasting rooms and which ones require appointments. Though all of them have internet pages, I was unable to find this information for most of them. A simple address and opening times or guidance for obtaining an appointment would have been welcome. But enough complaining, here is a quick list of the wines we enjoyed (I am no wine expert so I’ll save myself the embarrassment of tasting notes, suffice it to say that I was very happy drinking these wines), and I have linked to their web pages just in case anyone is interested.

  • Agrolaguna – festigia merlot 2009
  • Frank Arman – malvazia 2010
  • Benvenuti – malvazia 2010
  • Degrassi – cuvee blanc 2010
  • Kabola – malvazia 2010 (Kabola does have an open tasting room where visitors are free to stop by.)
  • Kozlovic – malvazia & muscat (I am not listing years because we have happily drank this wine on multiple occasions, both in the past and on this most recent trip. Kozlovic is probably one of the better known producers in all of Croatia and is justifiably famous for his Muscat. You do need an appointment to visit his tasting room.)
  • Matosevic – grimalda (merlot teran blend) 2009
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stuffed pumpkin

We are back from vacation (more on that later) and looking forward to the November recipe line up. In the meantime, apparently my auto-post did not work as I had hoped it would while I was away, so here is last week’s recipe. 

Dorie has named this week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Pumpkin stuffed with Everything Good. If ever a name summed up all you needed to know about a recipe, it is this one. I have been looking forward to this recipe ever since my copy of Around my French Table arrived. The picture (which you can check out along with the complete recipe on NPR’s website) is just too tempting for words.

The “everything good” part of this recipe is a cheesy, garlicky, bacony, creamy stuffing, which is roasted for a couple hours in a hollowed out pumpkin. Somehow the picture made this recipe look far more complicated than it actually was, as the prep work turned out to be quite quick.

The only modification I made was to roast two little baby pumpkins instead of one big one, assuming that individual portions would be easier both to serve and eat. The other benefit which I discovered was that my little pumpkins cooked in 90 minutes instead of the 2 hours recommended for a larger one. They also fit perfectly into soup bowls for serving, which helped to hold them together as we ate and looked just way too cute on the table. And the taste? Yum! We will be making this recipe again, I am already drooling over some of Dorie’s Bonne Idees.

Only one word of warning, this is a very hearty and filling recipe. Dorie indicates that a 3 pound pumpkin will make 2 very generous servings and she is not kidding. Even with my smaller pumpkins (which came to 1 pound each) I could only finish half of my portion. No worries though, the leftovers were delicious!

I also can’t help but mention here (and I hope he doesn’t mind) that this is not the first stuffed squash to have come out of my oven this month. One of our fellow FFwDers over at Of Cabbages & King Cakes recently posted an absolutely delicious recipe for Squash baked with Sausage & Apples which I served to rave reviews. I used bratwurst for the sausage and a hokkaido pumpkin and the flavors were just perfect together. I encourage you to check it out.

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pissaladiere

My university semester abroad was spent in southern France, and therefore I identify Provencal cooking as more “french” than say a Parisian steak frites. So for me, this week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Pissaladiere, is just about as french as it gets.

In Provence they are definitely not afraid of anchovies and the unsuspecting tourist may find them popping up in unexpected places. In Aix, where I lived, pizza ALWAYS came with a little anchovy in the middle, regardless of what the menu said. When I first arrived I hated anchovies and would always move the offending little intuder to the side and then bemoan the fact that it had already managed to flavor my pizza. But slowly, over time, the flavor began to grow on me and then became normal. Today, while I would not call myself an anchovy lover, I do believe that they have their place in certain recipes and this is one of them.

Pissaladiere is sometimes mistaken for pizza on first sight, and the crust is certainly similar, but the toppings include neither tomato sauce nor cheese. Instead, pissaladiere is topped with caramelized onions, cured olives, and anchovies. Having eaten my fair share of of these in France I was excited to give this recipe a try.

While not difficult, this recipe does take a little time to get together because the dough needs to rise and the onions need to caramelize. In my experience, onions will not properly caramelize unless given time to do so and I get irritated with any recipe which tries to tell me otherwise. I recently read a recipe which called for the onions to be “sauteed over medium-high heat until caramelized, about 10 to 15 minutes.” Dorie tells no such lies in her recipe, advising instead to cook the onions for 45 minutes over low heat because, “this isn’t a job you should rush.” Bless you Dorie!

But while I apparently have lots of opinions on caramelizing onions, I have almost no experience making pizza dough and I fear that I may have done something wrong with that piece of the recipe. While kneading it for the advised 5 minutes, I found the dough to be just crazy sticky and I think I ended up adding too much flour in order to be able to work with it. No idea if that was the problem or if it was something else, but my crust came out a bit dry in the end. Did anyone else have trouble with the dough or was it just me? I would welcome input from any of you who have more experience in this area.

Aside from the crust being a bit dry though, both my husband and I really enjoyed our pissaladiere, which I served up for lunch with a light side salad. I can see this one being a tough sell in general and would probably be hesitant to serve it to guests; just a few too many controversial ingredients going on. But if I can get the dough figured out I could happily see whipping one up again for just the two of us.

One final note, even as I type this my brain is already on vacation. Tonight we are hitting the road and heading to Croatia, one of my very favorite places in the world. My mouth is already watering just thinking about all the yummy food and wine. So many people associate Croatia and its cuisine with eastern europe, but the food is actually more closely related to the mediterranean diet, or I guess I should say adriatic, with lots of fresh seafood, olive oil, and pasta. I’ll tell you all about it when I get back, but in the meantime I’ll leave you with a picture of Rovinj, the town where we will be staying. Happy cooking and I look forward to catching up with all of your lovely stuffed pumpkin posts when I get back.

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chicken b’almost stilla

As I’m guessing anyone reading this knows, I created this blog in order to participate in French Fridays with Dorie, an online group of home cooks tackling the recipes in Dorie Greenspan’s Around my French Table, one week and one recipe at a time.

As one of the less experienced cooks in the group, my approach has been to treat this project as a learning experience, and with this in mind, my general rule has been to stick to Dorie’s recipe the first time through. Not because I am opposed to experimentation, but because I figure Dorie’s been in the kitchen a heck of a lot longer than I have and I figure that I should give her version (or her Bonne Idees) a try before venturing off on my own. That’s not to say that I can’t make a substitution here and there when the pantry dictates it, but again, just my general rule.

Well, that was the plan anyway, and I’m sure you all know what they say about the best laid plans!

Since I joined the group a few months late I am still catching up with some of the recipes which were completed before I threw my hat in the ring, and this week’s catch up recipe is Chicken b’Stilla. According to Dorie, Chicken b’Stilla is a popular Moroccan dish, somewhat similar to an american chicken pot pie. In this dish, a spiced chicken filling is wrapped in crispy phyllo dough and is meant to be eaten with your hands. Only trick is that Dorie says that it does not store very well, and since there are only two of us, I decided to cut the recipe in half and make little mini pies. Which is not changing the recipe exactly, just cutting it down to a manageable size.

To start, this is decidedly NOT a quick meal which you can throw together after work. In fact, I actually spread the work out over 3 days.

Day 1: cook the spiced chicken, onions, and broth

Day 2: cook everything down into a creamy filling (yummy by the way)

Day 3: wrap the filling in phyllo dough and…. oops!

After over 4 years in Germany the language still occasionally trips me up and it turns out that instead of buying phyllo dough at the grocery store, I accidentally bought puff pastry. Of course I didn’t actually notice this until I was getting ready to assemble the dish, at which point it was too late to run to the store to correct my error. Grrr, now what? Guess my only choice was to modify this recipe after all.

So, on day 3 I filled ramekins with my chicken mixture and toped them with puff pastry.

In the end my chicken b’almost stilla was very tasty, though I’m not sure I would have impressed any Moroccan cooks with it. I served it with a side of wild rice, and a simple but tasty recipe for Carrots with Moroccan Spices, which I found on a lovely blog called Halal Mama.

My husband and I both enjoyed our meal, but I did warn him in advance not to enjoy it too much, because this is not a dish I can see preparing very often due to the onerous prep time. Though I do still want to try the recipe as Dorie intended, so who knows, maybe I’ll give it another try sooner than expected.

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blini with smoked salmon and caviar

I was VERY excited when the October recipe list for French Fridays with Dorie was announced. It is easily the most interesting group of recipes we have cooked yet, and not because I expect them all to be great, but because they are, without exception, recipes which I have never cooked before.

This week’s recipe, Buckwheat Blini with Smoked Salmon and Creme Fraiche fell wide outside my comfort zone for several reasons. First, I have only encountered blini & caviar a few times before in my life, generally served up on silver trays at schmancy cocktail parties. Second, I do not like dill or smoked salmon (or really smoky flavored products of any kind), and while I don’t dislike caviar, I generally don’t like it enough to justify the price tag.

I spent a bit of time early in the month trying to figure out how to incorporate this recipe into a meal before finally embracing the fact that blini require no accompaniment except for a glass of something bubbly. And since I wasn’t really in the mood to throw a fancy cocktail party this week, we decided to treat ourselves to an elegant Sunday brunch. My rationalization is that the base ingredients here, pancakes & lox, while not often seen on the same plate, are hardly strangers at the breakfast table. So why not?

I made only one small substitution here, chives instead of dill. I thought about switching out the smoked salmon too, but my husband loves it and so rarely gets to enjoy it at home. As we were getting all of the ingredients ready to be assembled I tasted each of them separately: the caviar was good (so long as I didn’t think about the price), the smoked salmon was still yucky, and the blini were way too yeasty for my tastes. Not at all a good start to the meal.

But then, once assembled into a cute little bite sized package, it was actually, dare I say it, good! Somehow all of the flavors just melded together perfectly, even the salmon. Granted, I added a mini piece of salmon to each blini, but still, saying that I liked something with smoked ANYTHING is big for me. I must say that my husband and I felt quite elegant as we read our papers and enjoyed our blini and champagne.

Granted, this is not a recipe which I see us making again anytime soon, but I am happy that I stepped outside my comfort zone and gave it a try. And who knows, maybe some day in the future if we feel the need to throw a fancy party we’ll break this recipe out and wow our guests.

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potato gratin

I don’t remember what the exact occasion was, but at one point last year I told my husband that he could pick out any menu which his heart desired and I would make it for him. His selection: “steak, potato gratin, chocolate cake, oh and I guess something green on the side.”

So as you can see, potato gratin is something of a favorite in our house, though one which we do not make very often because of all that yummy cream! And therefore, we were curious to give Dorie’s recipe a try (printed here in Bon Appetit magazine), one which the rest of the French Fridays with Dorie crew had already completed last year.

The ingredients in Dorie’s potato gratin were all familiar to me, but her method was slightly different from the recipe which we generally use (from Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles cookbook) in that she does not cook the cream & potatoes together on the stove top before throwing them in the oven. Instead she warms the cream and then pours it over the layered potatoes. This results in less time on the stove top but more time in the oven.

We invited some friends over and served Dorie’s potato gratin along with pan seared duck breast and roasted broccoli. Everyone loved the gratin and proclaimed the recipe a winner. In fact, they polished off all but one small leftover portion before I remembered that I had forgotten to take a picture, so above is the photo of my leftover plate the following evening.

And while I agree with my guests that Dorie’s gratin was indeed very tasty, I will probably go back to my Les Halles recipe where the potatoes are blanched in cream before being baked, just because it takes slightly less hands on time and produces equally yummy results.

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olive oil cornish hens

Some recipes are more about technique than ingredients and this week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe, Olive Oil Cornish Hens, was a prime example. The list of ingredients was short and, aside from the hens themselves, consisted of basic pantry staples.

The all important technique called for in this recipe is spatchcocking, which entails opening up the hen and flattening it out.  After reading Dorie’s instructions for how to do this I was a little intimidated and my first thought was to ask the woman at the poultry stand to do it for me. But then I thought no, for me this project is meant to be a learning experience and what’s the point if I don’t even try. Then I found this great video on You Tube (how did we do anything before the internet was invented?) which demonstrates the simple steps for how you get your hens from this…                    to this…

   

According to Dorie, the benefits of this method are twofold: first, the chicken cooks faster (a little under half an hour for my little birdies) and second, ALL of the skin is facing up and thus comes out nice and crispy. Like this…

Brilliant right? I will absolutely be using this technique again. Paired with pumpkin casserole and a mixed green salad, Dorie’s recipe made for a simple yet tasty meal.

Edited to add the Pumpkin Casserole recipe. The original recipe came from Williams Sonoma’s New Healthy Kitchen book. This is my slightly tweaked version.

Ingredients:

  • 4 pounds (2 kilograms) sugar pie pumpkin (these are the small pumpkins, not the big jack-o-lantern guys), seeded and cut into 2 inch wedges 
  • olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/4 cup creme fraiche (I imagine cream would work here as well)
  • 1 tsp butter
  • 1/3 cup bread crumbs
  • 1/2 tsp dried rosemary
  • 2 TBS grated parmesan
  • 2 TBS grated gruyere
Preheat oven to 350 F (180 C) and grease a gratin or other 2 quart baking dish.

Coat pumpkin wedges lightly with olive oil and place on a baking sheet. Bake until tender, about 1 to 1.5 hours. Remove from oven, remove and discard the skins, and mash the flesh in a bowl with the nutmeg, creme fraiche, and salt-n-pepper to taste. Spread the pumpkin mixture in your prepared gratin dish.

Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat, add the bread crumbs and stir for about 2 minutes or until golden brown. Sprinkle bread crumbs, rosemary, and cheeses over the pumpkin. 

Bake until slightly golden on top and bubbling at the edges about 20 minutes. 

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